2022年初染 ウォードすくも-インディゴ麩灰汁建染フランス羊毛布 First dyeing French wool cloth with couched woad-Indigo bran & lye vat

朝、外は零下12度、藍建液温25〜28度、3面ガラスの染場の室温は曇れば7度、晴れれば日中18~20度になる。積雪1m、ガラスの向こうに氷柱、雪が舞う。乳白色のフランス オクシタニー地域産羊毛布を藍建液に浸けると、インジゴが藍還元菌によって還元された水溶性のロイコインジゴにより、緑色に染まる。その布を液から取り出すと、徐々に空気中の酸素で酸化して不溶性のインジゴに変わり、藍色になる。冬は色のコントラストが強い。

In the morning, the outside temperature is -12 degrees Celsius, the indigo liquid temperature is 25 to 28 degrees Celsius, and the room temperature of the dyeing place with glass on three sides is 7 degrees Celsius when it is cloudy and 18-20 degrees Celsius in the daytime when it is sunny. There is 1m of snow outside, and icicles and snow dance behind the glass. Milky white woolen cloth from the Occitanie region of France is dyed green by the water-soluble leuco indigo reduced by indigo reducing bacteria. When the cloth is removed from the indigo liquid, it gradually oxidizes with oxygen in the air and turns into indigo, which turns indigo. Color contrast is strong in winter.



フィンランド原種羊毛の藍発酵建染 Dyeing Finnish raw wool with fermented Sukumo indigo vat on 20 degrees C

2019年にスコットランドチェビオットやオーストラリアメリノを30kg、2020年に楮作品122cm×122cmを4点を染めたindigo vatで、今回はフィンランド羊毛を染めました。繊細で長毛、オイリーな原毛で、好きな藍色に仕上がりました。

Indigo vat dyed 30 kg of Scottish Cheviot and Australian Merino in 2019, and 4 pieces of 122 cm x 122 cm in 2020, and this time dyed Finnish wool. Delicate, long hair, oily raw wool, finished in my favorite indigo colour.

ウォードの収穫ー染料作り harvest woad and make woad ball and couched woad




Studio in mid winter, 2021/1/14 

left:Sukumo+wheat bran+wood ash lye 100L vat                                        

right:couched woad+indigo cake(10% of weight of couched woad)+ wheat bran+wood ash lye 100L vat

原毛と羊毛布の染め Dyeig raw wool and wool cloth


Production indigo paste and Sukumo with Polygonum tinctorium, couched woad using green woad ball with Isatis tinctoria

蓼藍を収穫、400L浸ける。harvesting Polygonum tinctorium, then soaking 400L in water

全草を使い藍建用の沈澱藍、葉のみで藍顔料を作る  Making indigo paste for indigo vats and indigo pigments for painting.
葉を水に浸けてインジカンを抽出する  soaking leaves in water for extracting Indican
すくも藍用の蓼藍の乾燥葉とウォードすくも用のウォードボール dry leaves with Polygonum for Sukumo, and woad balls for couched woad
ウォードボールを砕いて、ウォードすくもを作る準備をする Break down woad balls for making couched woad for vats

「4つの藍染料発酵建による羊毛染」Wool dyeing with fermenting vat using 4 kinds of indigo dyes


Oral presentation “Wool dyeing with fermenting vat using 4 kinds of indigo dyes” in the 15th meeting of Natural Dyes and Pigments Conference, UTSUNOMIYA University, Nov 18th 2018.


And, exhibited and explained posters and wool samples that had presented as one of collaborators in DHA 37, Lisbon, 25th-26th October 2018, those were my dyeing 40 pieces of 10 shades with my 4 kinds of vats, 50 pieces with 5 kinds of vats by other 2 persons and 1 group, totally 90 pieces of wool cloth samples.






藍建4種 4 kinds of indigo vats

1月 すくも藍100L建(蓼藍すくも藍、木灰、小麦麩、消石灰(原料:石灰岩、pH調整用)

January, making Sukumo(fermented dry leaves,  Polygonum tincturum) 100L vat(Sukumo, lye of wood ash, wheat bran, a little slaked lime from limestone for controlling pH)

2月 琉球藍100L建(琉球藍ペースト、浸漬液、灰汁、小麦麩、消石灰(pH調整用)

February, making Ryukyu-ai(indigo paste, extracted and oxidised with slake lime, Strobilanthes cusia) 100L vat, (indigo paste, soaking solution,  bran, lye with oak ash, a little slaked lime from limestone for controlling pH)

3月 インド藍靛建100L(インド藍靛、インドアイ乾燥葉ペースト、灰汁、小麦麩、消石灰(pH調整用)

March, making Indigo cakes(indigo cube, extracted and oxidised,  Indigofera tinctoria) 100L vat, (indigo cakes, paste with dry Indigofera leaves, lye of oak ash, bran, a little slaked lime from limestone for controlling pH)

4月 ウォードすくも建50L(ウォードすくも、ウォードすくもの10%のインド藍靛、灰汁、小麦麩、消石灰(pH調整用)

April, Couched woad vat(fermented woad ball with Isatis tinctoria) 50L vat,(couched woad, indigo cakes(10% of couched woad), lye of oak ash, bran, a little slaked lime from limestone for controlling pH)

5月 それぞれの藍建液の染色性をあげる試み:発酵状態を観ながら、微生物の活性で低下したpHを徐々に上げ、綿糸、麻糸、羊毛原毛、羊毛糸各1kgを100Lの液で藍染、酸化を繰り返しながら2時間かけて藍染し、液の活性と染糸の濃度を比較した。

May, the trial for improving dye-affinity of each vat : looking fermentation state, gently increasing pH became down by microbe activity, then dyed each 1kg of cotton, linen, raw wool and wool yarn in each 100L vat for 2 hours dyeing and oxidising yarn and fibre, made a comparison with active of vat and colour value of dyed yarn.

△すくも藍 Sukumo

△すくも藍建 Sukumo-ai vat

△ウォードすくも Couched woad

△ ウォードすくも建 Couched woad vat

△琉球藍 Ryukyu-ai

△琉球藍建液 Ryukyu-ai vat

△インド藍靛 indigo cake

△インド藍靛建液 indigo cakes vat

其々1kgの綿糸、すくも藍、琉球藍、インド藍の各100L発酵建染、染色時間:各2時間、each 1kg of cotton yarn dyed with each 100L of Sukumo vat, Ryukyu-ai vat and indigo cake vat


1kg of French raw wool and yarn dyed with couched woad vat, indigo cake vat and others.

木綿布( 60cm×200cm/1枚)濃淡10段階で10枚、2組制作、すくも藍建ての藍甕270L

Cotton cloth(60cm×200cm/1sheet)、10 shades/10 sheets, made 2 sets by 270L of Sukumo vat

トップページはウォード灰汁発酵建藍染の苧麻の布と糸, Ramie on top page dyed by Woad vat


▽surface of woad vat after stirring, it changes to indigo by oxidising.


cotton yarn took out from vat


Change to indigo colour slowly


left: 2 cotton yarn dyed by couched woad vat,

center: 1 cotton yarn and fabric by couched woad vat mixed with 5% Indian indigo

right: 1 cotton yarn and fabric by couched woad vat mixed with 10% indian indigo




left:2 cotton yarn dyed with woad vat,                                                          centre:1 cotton yarn dyed with woad+indigo cake vat,                                   right:2 cotton yarn dyed with Sukumo vat, each is different shades of colour.